What To Do In St John Virgin Islands
I once watched a man in stiff new flip-flops try to carry a full cooler down the Reef Bay Trail. He made it maybe a quarter mile before the cooler won. His partner’s face said...
I once watched a man in stiff new flip-flops try to carry a full cooler down the Reef Bay Trail. He made it maybe a quarter mile before the cooler won. His partner’s face said everything: we are not doing this again.
That’s St John in a nutshell. You arrive thinking you’ll conquer the island, and the island gently, firmly rearranges your plans. So if you’re asking what to do here, the honest answer is: less than you think, but more deliberately.
This isn’t a place for cramming five excursions into one day. It’s small, mostly protected national park, and stubbornly laid-back. You don’t beat St John. You sync with it.
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First, accept that you will get sandy
St John has no airport, so you’ll fly into St Thomas and take a ferry from Red Hook or Crown Bay. The ride over is short, breezy, and weirdly emotional for a boat. When you step off in Cruz Bay, you’re already on island time.
Rent a jeep if you can. The roads are steep, narrow, and occasionally dramatic in a way that makes you question your life choices. But taxis and the safari buses work fine if you’d rather not play chicken with a switchback.
And yes, you need reef-safe sunscreen. No, the sun does not care that you “never burn.” It burns.
Trunk Bay: the postcard you’ve already seen
Trunk Bay is beautiful. It’s also the busiest beach on the island, so go early or late. The underwater snorkel trail is nice for beginners, though the coral has seen better decades.
If you want the same wow with fewer elbows, try Cinnamon Bay or Maho Bay. Maho is calm, shallow, and often full of sea turtles. You’ll hear someone shriek “I saw one!” every few minutes. That’s fine. Let them have it.
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Snorkeling is the main event
You came to St John for the water. Don’t overthink it. Grab a mask, fins, and a sense of humor about swallowing saltwater.
Waterlemon Cay is a classic, but the swim can be choppy. If the current says no, listen. No means no, even when your GoPro disagrees.
Salt Pond Bay is another gem, with a short hike down and decent shade. Bring water, because there are no lifeguards and no snack bars. This is not a resort pool, friend.
Hike something, even if you hate hiking
St John’s trails are hot, rocky, and worth it. The Reef Bay Trail takes you past petroglyphs and old plantation ruins down to a quiet beach. It’s about five miles round-trip, so skip the cooler-on-flip-flops strategy.
For something shorter, do the Lind Point Trail from Cruz Bay to Honeymoon Beach. It’s manageable, shady in spots, and gives you that “I earned this swim” feeling. You can also just walk to Salomon Bay and pretend you’re adventurous.
Annaberg Plantation is less hike, more history. The ruins are haunting and beautiful, especially near sunset. Go, read the signs, and feel small in the best way.
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Eat, drink, and pretend you’re local
Cruz Bay has the most restaurants and bars, from fancy to flip-flop casual. Coral Bay is quieter, weirder, and deeply lovable. You’ll find yourself choosing a side by day three.
Get a painkiller. Yes, it’s a cliché. No, you don’t have to apologize. Also try roti, fresh fish, and anything with mango if it’s in season.
Skinny Legs in Coral Bay is a burger-and-beer institution. The Lime Inn in Cruz Bay is reliably good. Miss Lucy’s does Sunday brunch with a view that makes your phone camera feel inadequate.
Do nothing on purpose
This is the real St John activity. Find a beach, float, read, nap, repeat. You’ll feel guilty for about ten minutes. Then you’ll get over it.
Watch the sunset from the North Shore beaches or a quiet spot in Coral Bay. The sky does things that look edited. They aren’t.
And when you leave, you’ll understand why people keep coming back. St John doesn’t give you a checklist. It gives you permission to slow down. Take it.